Patek Philippe’s gorgeous new purple watch is fit for a queen

In the rarefied world of haute horlogerie, a wristwatch’s movement is generally more highly prized than its case and dial design.

The mechanics that are behind the face of a fine timepiece speak volumes about its quality and desirability.

While self-winding mechanical watches for women have taken hold in recent years, it’s rare to find the same level of attention to detail and craftsmanship dedicated to their outer beauty.

Patek Philippe’s new women’s watches are most certainly exceptions to that rule.

With the new Calatrava Self-Winding 4997/200R, Patek Philippe matches the refinement of its ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240 movement with an exquisitely crafted dial and case.

The watch’s richly textured and colored dial is achieved via a meticulous and time-consuming process.

First, the domed dial’s metal base is embossed with a concentric, radiating wave pattern.

More than 50 layers of translucent purple lacquer are then applied over the sculpted dial, creating an eye-catching play of light and a color of exceptional richness.

The dial’s undulating waves radiate outward towards the bezel, which is set with 76 internally flawless diamonds.

Rose-gold dauphine hour and minute hands and slim hour markers add extra touches of refinement to the watch’s dial.

A purple satin-textured calfskin strap extends the timepiece’s rich color around the wrist.

And its ultra-thin, self-winding Caliber 240 movement offers a slim, elegant profile, with its 35 mm dial sitting just 7.4 mm above the wrist.

The Calatrava is just one of several Patek Philippe ladies’ timepieces introduced at the 2023 Watches and Wonders salon in Switzerland last spring.

Another new offering, part of the Art Deco-inspired Gondolo collection, is also adorned with a rich color palette.

A true jewelry watch, the Gondolo Serata is crafted of rose gold, featuring a bezel set with 94 brilliant-cut spessartites in a color gradient ranging from deep cognac to mandarin orange.

The watch’s brown dial, which is decorated with a floral motif, complements the rich shades of the spessartites.

The sporty new Aquanaut Luce, meanwhile, is also made with rose gold and features 48 top-quality diamonds set into its bezel.

The color, though, is the news here — the dial and strap are taupe, which Patek describes as a warm shade of gray.

Like all Aquanauts, the watch is robustly water resistant and can withstand water pressure equivalent to 120 meters deep.

Another signature Aquanaut feature is its self-winding movement, bearing the Patek Philippe Seal, which can be seen through the Aquanaut Luce’s sapphire-crystal caseback.

With such an array of new offerings, devotees of the brand can freshen up their collection with a timepiece to match their personality and style.

“Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections? Because each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves,” says brand president Thierry Stern.