Tour Six Senses Vana, India’s exclusive ayurvedic wellness resort

My doshas weren’t just balanced, they were blissed out.

Floating weightlessly in the warm Watsu pool like a newborn, eyes closed, I was cradled in the arms of a hydrotherapist who gently rocked, stretched, and massaged my body. By the time she sounded the final Tibetan singing bowl, I was in a state of absolute beatitude.

And I had totally changed my tune.

When I booked a five-day program at Six Senses Vana, the Indian wellness retreat nestled in the Himalayan foothills, I expected to relax, lose a few pounds, and embarrass myself in yoga class. All of those things happened, but I also gained an unexpected new appreciation for the power of holistic healing systems.

The all-inclusive resort in Dehradun is one of the leading ayurvedic sanctuaries in the world, setting a new standard for serene high luxury, and personalized treatment plans. Indian entrepreneur Veer Singh opened the state-of-the-art ashram in 2014 after spending five years and a reported $55 million building the 21-acre destination. In January, he handed over operations to Six Senses, the global hotel group.

The property is tranquil but dazzling. Leafy grounds are ringed by sal trees and populated by songbirds, butterflies, and a cartload of monkeys.

The vast kila, or lobby, is centered around an oval reflecting pool, whose ripples are echoed in the wavy bamboo ceiling. An enchanting rooftop infinity pool boasts panoramic forest views.

After arriving from Delhi in a chauffeured car stocked with refreshments, I was greeted by the welcoming team. They slipped a sandalwood bead bracelet on my wrist, handed me a ceramic mug of red orchid infusion, and dotted my forehead with crimson. I was officially a Vanavasi.

A Guest Experience Maker escorted me to a Bodhi Suite, which felt more like a floor-through apartment with a beautifully appointed sitting room, meditation room, dressing room, bedroom, powder room, bathroom, and two balconies. It was so exquisite that I never wanted to leave.

Then she explained the house rules. Guests are asked to wear the baggy white cotton kurta pajamas delivered daily to their rooms. At first, I felt like I was in a New Age cult, but quickly realized it’s liberating to wear a vanity-neutralizing, elastic-waist uniform. Almost everyone complied with the dress code, although I was shocked to see one woman brazenly rocking a Versace hoodie and leggings in the dining room.

Harder to get used to was the cellphone and laptop ban in shared and outdoor spaces. I was jonesing for media fixes, but there’s no question that my experience was greatly enhanced by the partial digital detox. It was also easier to hobnob with the interesting international crowd — I met an English portrait photographer on her third visit and a Central European couple enjoying a 21-day Ayurveda Panchakarma reset — since I wasn’t staring at a screen.

My visit started with a consultation with Rafeek Jabbar, a jovial Ayurvedic doctor. He checked my heart rate and blood pressure, measured my oxygen levels, and hooked me up to a high-tech screening machine that analyzed 40 different biomarkers. The gadget revealed that I was dehydrated and sedentary, which I couldn’t deny.

He determined that my dosha life energy type is Vata — a combination of air and space — and prescribed yoga and detox modalities. I was encouraged to drink warm water in the mornings, avoid carbs, and take part in group activities, from Om Mantra Meditation to Sandhya Yoga Breathing.

I spent my days gliding from Yogayam and reflexology to Tibetan hot oil massage. (Vana is one of the few places in the world to offer Sowa Rigpa traditional Tibetan medicine.) I sampled biohacks in the kila — thigh-high air compression boots that inflated to hilarious proportions and a heated massage belt — and lazed at the indoor and outdoor pools.

I felt particularly virtuous eating colorful vegetarian fare, in sharp contrast to my usual heedless diet. Executive chef Rajesh Sharma creates varied and delicious Indian-inspired ayurvedic menus (with meat and fish options) and makes everything fresh in-house, from condiments to flour. The breakfast and lunch buffets were works of art.

Two guided off-site expeditions, available to guests at an additional charge, were bucket-list worthy. I went on a pilgrimage to the ashram town of Rishikesh, the yoga capital where The Beatles studied transcendental meditation in the ’60s. On the banks of the sacred Ganges river, I participated in aarti, a fire ritual and flower offering. The following day, I hiked the higher Mussoorie hills and caught a breathtaking view of the snow-capped Himalayas.

Despite being skeptical of anything remotely woo-woo, I had to admit the rituals worked. I lost 3 pounds without trying and felt more relaxed and energized than I had in years.

If this isn’t nirvana, it’s close.