Winter is coming — is your skin’s wall ready?
As the seasons change, so should your skincare routine, according to the dermatologists who advise their patients to switch up the products they use to be better suited for the cold weather.
The cold conditions fall and winter seasons can wreck your skin, making it dry and flaky and turning our cheeks and nose red. The outdoor air is dryer, and once you step inside, the indoor heating can further drain the moisture.
“[Our skin] is the first line of defense against the cold and wind, so we need to ensure the skin barrier is healthy and supported,” Katie Matten, Global Head of Education of RATIONALE, told The Post.
Ready to bundle up your skin barrier? Read on to learn how below.
Why should I swap my skincare products with the seasons?
Skin health is deeply affected by the environment: temperature fluctuations, sun exposure and weather conditions are all important considerations when creating a skincare routine.
“As we transition from summer to fall we see less sunlight and lower temperatures, and this can create a dull and dry texture, Rachael Gallo, esthetician and Chief Operating Officer at Silver Mirror Facial Bar, told The Post. She said that the brisk, moisture-sapping air of winter generally calls for more hydrating products than in the summer.
Matten agreed: “During the colder months we need to ensure that our skin resilience is strong, which allows the ability to bounce back and withstand drastic weather changes.”
Patricia Schuffenhauer, the Chief Product Officer at luxury skincare company Erno Laszlo, also noted to The Post that wind, rain and snow can play a part in which types of products should be used as more severe weather could damage skin.
Additionally, your opened products with active ingredients can become less effective the longer they are sitting unused, Gallo explained. Changing these products seasonally will “ensure fresh ingredients with effective active ingredients for results.”
What products should I use in the winter?
“Each season, the two main items to change are your cleanser and your moisturizer,” said Gallo. “During the hotter months, change to a gel- or foam-based cleanser to help with the excessive heat and dead skin. In the colder months, switch to a cream cleanser and add one with a milk base for extra hydration.”
“For your moisturizers start thinnest to thickest as you transition from the warmer to colder months.”
One of the best ways to protect your skin from the cold is to go for a thicker cream-based moisturizer with Vitamin C, said Gallo, while Schuffenhauer pointed out that a high oil content in your face lotion might do the trick.
“Even if you are prone to oily skin, this will help balance your own oil production,” she said, adding that you also need to cracked lips by using a hydration-replenishing balm.
Schuffenhauer stressed that harsh cleansers can strip the skin of moisture, so it’s essential to use a gentle cleanser to remove dirt and debris.
“Applying any products to slightly damp skin can also help to ‘lock’ in moisture,” she added.
As for the ritual itself, Schuffenhauer likes to start with a hydrating essence product or toner just after cleansing. Follow that with a rich moisturizer and top it off with an SPF product. Even though you might not see it, the sun still emits UV rays in the winter.
What ingredients should I use in the winter and which should I avoid?
Gallo likes humectants, such as hyaluronic acid and lactic acid, which draw moisture from within to the surface of your skin. This will help keep your skin looking plump and hydrated in spite of the cold air. For red skin caused by frigid winds, try adding the vitamin B-derivative niacinamide, an effective anti-inflammatory ingredient.
Meanwhile, some may consider putting harsher ingredients like salicylic acid and retinol aside in cold weather. These powerful skincare tools may be too strong for our already weather-compromised visage.
When temps drop, Schuffenhauer likes emollients, or moisturizers, which build a protective layer to the skin. They’re the “MVPs” when it comes to maintaining supple and soothed skin, she said. Popular emollients include shea butter, plant oils and, particularly, fatty acids, such as squalane and jojoba, which encourage the skin’s ability to maintain its own moisture levels.
The cold weather and wind should come with a daily application of nourishing ceramides and lipids, Matten added, as well as B-Group vitamins — like aforementioned niacinamide — and antioxidants, including vitamins C and E, to provide optimal protection against external aggressors.
Once again, all experts reiterated the important of SPF year-round.
How should I transition into a new skincare routine?
Everyone’s skin chemistry is a little difference, so be sure not to jump into a new skincare routine all at once. Starting slowly and patch-testing new products ensures they won’t irritate the skin or cause a breakout, Schuffenhauer said.
“Only try one new product at a time, even though it may be exciting to try a bunch of new products at once. This way, you will be able to pinpoint the culprit if your skin experiences any negative side effects,” she explained.
One way to avoid a bad reaction is to start by switching to a milder exfoliant to remove, according to Gallo.
“To ease into your new winter routine start with changing your exfoliation process, this way the new skin will be ready for your new products,” she advised. “A very light and effective exfoliation ingredient in the winter is pumpkin. Use a pumpkin exfoliator three times a week for two weeks, then switch to your new antioxidant serum and moisturizer.”
Remember, said Matten, when adding active ingredients, less is more: “Try gradually incorporating these types of actives in a phased approach, by adding into your routine every second night for two weeks, then if comfortable, work up to using every night.”
As always, the derms urged skincare switchers to check in with a skincare professional for more personalized guidance before jumping into a change.
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